Travel Day – New York – San Jose, Costa Rica!

It’s cold in New York as I happily board my flight from Newark to  San Jose, Costa Rica. I am revisiting a town I had have been thinking about for a long time, the little town of Montezuma, Costa Rica.  I was there almost exactly 16 years ago to the date and I have been thinking of that place ever since. It sits on the southern tip of the  Nicoya Peninsula nestled at the base of a large hill. It’s a small coastal town where the blue pacific meets a 2 street town. I never quite forgot about the place that welcomed me so in 1995.

Boarding the plane I see an old friend walking down the aisle. Linda? HOLY SHIT! As we both laugh, most certainly a sign that the world continues to get smaller and smaller and that it was a long overdue reunion. I have known Linda almost as long as the time I had spent away from Costa Rica! Both welcomed homecomings and both a sign that I was in the right place and at the right time. Linda was with a large group heading to southern Costa Rica for a birthday party, yoga and a much needed break, I am also celebrating a birthday in Costa Rica, not mine, but Manuel’s. He is flying jump seat today, while Niko (his son) and I get the much needed emergency row (Niko is 6 foot 6.) The flight will take 5 hours.

Landing in San Jose we are greeted by “Punto” Manuel’s daughter who had arrived from Santiago, Chile – the timing was just right. On our way out – we buy a bottle of Havana Club Rum and exchange a bit of money and say goodbye to Linda and the gang! We bring enough American dollars and switch at the airport no matter what the exchange. You can’t rely on  ATM’s in surfer or hippie towns  – and we were right to do it. 4 out of 5 ATM machines did not work during our stay. Still, Costa Rica is incredibly first world even though it looks like a typical Latin American country. It prides itself by being the safest country in Central America and it does not even have an army! Coined the “Switzerland” of Latin America the people pride themselves on what sets them apart from the reset of Central America. Costa Rica is safe, the people are kind, the food is good and it all starts with a great education system that is available for all Costa Ricans. 20 years ago or more, the government  made a commitment to protecting its natural resources as well. Its wildlife, rain forests and oceans are prized and protected and this has attracted  eco tourists  in droves. The Costa Rican economy made the right decisions – based on the latest 2010 statistics,  71% of the GDP is tourism and related services.

Costa Rica is a young in geography – with its active volcanoes, enormous rain forests, and endless beaches it is home to various species of land, air and sea. There are wet and dry seasons and weather can change drastically due to elevation and foliage. We were headed west where it is dry and hot. Costa Rica is about the size of Vermont and New Hampshire combined. San Jose,  its capital city holds about 2.1 of the 4.5 million Costa Ricans living in the country. Locals here are called “Ticos” and their state motto is “Pura Vida” which means the pure life or plenty of life. You greet people with this simple phrase I find to be awesome. “Pura Vida”  Preceeds “Hola”. Can you imagine greeting people – wishing them plenty and pure life? How cool is that!

On our way out of the car rental place we find the best local joint to have lunch! An so the Vacation Begins! We order a local beer, drink a local juice of guanabana and papaya and devour sweet plantains, rice and beans and heart of palm salad – that is a veggie delight! – If you are with a carnivore – well then – the rotisserie  chicken is a must cooked in a brick oven with some kind of special wood. Poor chickies I can’t stand the sight of cooking whole bodied animals on a stick but I am told by the others that the chicken are delicious.

Headed on the new route 27 – otherwise known as a “dry canal” specifically built  for container ship’s cargo to move from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean.  I’m told by a local that it is faster than the Panama Canal! “In the canal! You have to wait in line and the cruise ships get to go first!” This is season for produce and fruit stands line this highway that winds its way through and arid landscape of pastel colors. If you want to get to the Nicoya Peninsula – you really should take the Ferry. There are a few – we are taking the one from Puntarenas to Paquera. One we reach Paquera by boat it is another  30km to Montezuma which should take about and hour.  The ferry will cut down your trip to a few hours, rather than the 8 it would take you to drive around. Information on Nicoya.

The port town of Puntarenas is kind of dirty and stinky but not offensive. The main drag into the ferry dock is a typical Latin American scene. Dogs, kids in school uniforms, bodegas, restaurants, barred windows, pastel cement buildings,  ½ painted buildings and empty lots. When we arrive we are greeted with a busy ferry worker that grabs you to get in line. The ferry we are taking is about 3 times the size of the ferry I took 16 years ago –a good sign that tourism has increased – oh and the 27 highway – cut the trip in half from San Jose – to Puntarenas from 2.5 hours to 1 hour and 10 minutes. Originally you had to take the Panamerican Highway.

Getting out of the air – conditioned car, the thick heat of the Ferry Dock envelops you.  We get in line, buy tickets and wait to board the boat.  It is a small ferry town but it buzzes. The ferry carries people, trucks, bucket loaders, tractors, buses and even livestock. It is a smorgasbord of eco tourists, Europeans (Germans that are buying up property left and right), hippies, locals, kids and truck drivers. It is about 5pm as the ferry horn begins to blow.  The sun begins to set as we set sail toward Paquera. The Ferry takes about 65 minutes.

We crack open a cold can local beer called “Imperial” and soak in the warm humid air.

After a few pensive moments staring at the sunset – we hear music. And so that party begins! As the ferry chugs along and the scenery is breathtaking but locals here get enough of that! They would rather grab a drink and watch the those grabbing 5 minutes of “FERRY FAME”.  Check out Niko and Punto – who were begged to continue after these award winning performances!

Arrving at Paquera Port- it is dark  and somehow all the cars disperse and you find yourself alone on the road to Montezuma which will take another hour of driving. The roads are winding and dark, sometimes they are dirt, sometimes they are paved. Along the way there are a few towns but not much. We stop in to buy water at the “Vargas Mercado” where I am happy to see the old Coca Cola bottles that you can return for washing and refill. When I buy my water, in leu of mother nature I buy big –  less plastic, less waste and save them all for refills or other uses.

As we near Montezuma and make our final descent into the small town, it is exactly how I remembered it –  This 2 street town with its dim lit cafes, gift shops, bars restaurants and hotels looks exactly the same as it did before. After spending a while on dark winding roads, we are relieved and excited for the light. We press on a bit more to the hotel Los Mangos which sits on the other side of the cove… an easy walk into town – but just enough outside for peace and quiet.

We finally arrived – Door to door 16 hours. taxi – airplane – car – ferry – car.

Day One –  WOW and WOW! Waterfalls and Whales!

The best part about arriving to a place at night is waking up and seeing what is around you.  Hotel Los Mangos is run by two Greek brothers, Niko and Costa – both of whom I met 16 years ago. I wake up and run down to see if he is sitting where I left him last, at the reception of the hotel.

The hotel is a series of bungalows set in the trees. They also have room accommodations but if you stay at mangos you must stay in the bungalows – that have a lazy front port and hammock – perfect for a siesta out of the sun and an evening drink before dinner. Both romantic and rustic Los Mangos for me is a great hotel for the money. They don’t serve food – but just across the street there 4 places to choose from breakfast to lunch to dinner so really it does not make a difference. It is a small price to pay for living in the trees amongst the monkeys.

As I run down one of the winding walkways – canopy of trees above – and blue Pacific Ocean across the way – I turn the corner and there he is!

“Kali- Mera Costa! I don’t know if you remember me but I was here with friend’s about 16 years ago. Greek friends actually! I’m Stephanie!”

“Ella Stephanie! 16 years ago! Wow! Yes I remember! (At that moment he did not – but then he did!) “Your mother is German right?” I was relieved he remembered. Even though I am only ¼ Greek and only know a few words, Greeks are like a small club when we meet other Greeks. It is hard to explain but there is a odd familiarity.  He immediately calls me “Kookla” and tells me to “Katzi” meaning please sit down – to talk. He lights up a cigarette and takes a sip of his coffee, so far nothing has changed.  “Costa, I want to go to the waterfalls today. Isn’t it just around the corner and about an hour’s hike? We went there the first time I visited – you brought us there.”

“Ella Stephanie! Yes, but be careful! Wear sneakers and don’t fall – people have died there. – but you must go, it is beautiful” Typical Greek and warning and a blessing. I forgot how close it was, literally just across the way and to the right and we entered the reserve. Much of the land surrounding us is reserved actually. Cabo Blanco is the southern most tip of the peninsula and it is set aside for nature to prevail. As a result the area surrounding us is full of life. Birds, monkeys and more!

It takes about 20 minutes to get the the base of the 3 tiered waterfall. There are tons of families picnicking and swimming. We choose to leave the crowd and aim for at least the second tier – but we end up at the third.  “Don’t look down and take it slow” as we are grabbing onto roots and tree limbs to get to the top. It’s hot and rocks can sometimes fall underneath your feet. Sometimes I get a little nervous with things, scared and even think of the WORST when it comes to mini adventures but still challenge myself to make it to the top which has it rewards. If you take it slow, have the right shoes it is a MUST when visiting Montezuma – reach the top of the falls!

There are less people up here – we dive into the pools jump off the rocks, rope swing into the water and sit there. The sound of the crashing water is enough to turn off the noise in your head and just enjoy the sights and the heights! We are about 20 stories high.

After a few hours, we choose to head even further up and around to get back down to town. Beautiful butterflies and vegetation surround us as we hit the river banks again and head toward the beach. Invigorated!

Montezuma beach is Pristine. The town actually sits on the cove and as you walk north the beach just gets better and better.  We find a place under a tree to take a siesta and look out onto the Ocean. “The Pacific smells different than the Atlantic ocean for some reason.” He says.. “and look – doesn’t the ocean look red?” It did look red. And it was strange. At some points when the waves were crashing half of the wave was red and the other half blue? It was the strangest thing we ever saw?

After our siesta we head toward the ylang ylang hotel for a sunset cocktail. We order Guaro Sours – Guaro is a local “rum” like alcohol made here in costa rica and it is delicious… it is a beautiful evening and all of a sudden we here a scream!

The table near us jumps up and runs toward the water! I immediately think there is a dead dolphin on the beach or someone is drowning until we look up and I see my first whale dancing in the ocean!

An exhilerating day in Montezuma calls for a relaxing delicious meal at the Playa de los Artistes. We dine on lentils, raviolis, greens and more and drink plenty of wine. Just before I fall asleep I think of the whale and worry about the red water….

My favorite part about traveling is not only meeting new people on the fly – but being connected to people by other people when visiting different places. A colleague and friend of mine, Claire overheard me talking about my trip at the office. She quickly emailed her mother and asked “Are you near Montezuma?”. Lucky for me the answer was yes. Claire asked me if I could bring a care package to her  mother and I did with pleasure. Mail is not that reliable in Costa Rica.

The email from Claire’s mother Lynda was simple – “When you get to Montezuma, send me an email and I will show you around the place”. “The place” being the Sanctuary where Lynda now lives full time. She is the Director and Resident Yoga and Meditation Teacher there. After a quick email, Lynda left me a number that I called. “The cell phone is spotty here, but the directions are simple. Drive toward Cabuya, at the 3rd river, there is a bridge with a steel railing. We are the unmarked gate just before that bridge. I will be coming down river to meet you. The river is the Rio Lajas, I will see you soon.

Well I totally flew by the turn and drove a little too long before making my way back and realizing Cabuya was just up the road from Montezuma and on the beach side. As I drove past pristine private coves to my left where people were sunbathing, the bustle of the town was behind me and the light began to change.  I have no idea what to expect but I am thinking it is some yoga retreat that is built by a river… no big deal… I even asked a few people if they had ever heard of the place all everyone shrugged their shoulders? Costa did not even know! I barrel down the dirt road and see a woman standing at an unmarked gate just in front of a bridge with a steel rail. This must be it…. so I pull in.

“Lynda? Hi!!!!! Get in!”  as I grab her and drive through the gates and through a small herd of cows…. the tour begins!

“I am so happy to see what all this is about! Thanks for inviting me over!” I tell her!

I get out of the car, parcels in hand and we hugged, I immediately give her the packages and I can see she takes a moment to think about her daughter Claire while she looks at the packaging.  At that moment, we agree that we felt like we already know each other. “I feel like we have met!” I said to Lynda, “But we haven’t! so weird right?”  She seems excited to see me and to know I will return to NY soon to see her Claire. Claire I have a big hug waiting for you when I see you! We started walking down the banks of the river and we start talking about anything and everything.

“The Sanctuary has an atv Rhino and a Mercedez Unimog truck for transporting luggage and supplies to the jungle”.  I realize she just read my mind, as I picture sanctuary seekers from the city trying to roll their suitcases up the river. I look behind me as we continue to hike up of the river bank and I see no power lines,  no dirt roads, not much of anything man made come to think of it. The light that dances on the river greets you and the babbling of the water calms your nerves immediately. At this point I can’t even imagine what could be ahead. You have to cross the river a few times, I think it was 3 actually, I regret not bringing my five finger shoes.

The Sanctuary at Two Rivers is 7 years in the making and Jeff Gossett and  Perrey Reeves are the co-creators. As we leave the river behind and start to climb a hill, a fence line begins and I feel like we might be getting close. At this point I am out of breath but full of energy, we find a trail and notice the butterflies around.  Lynda tells me, she definitely picked the right place to live. Jeff and Perrey asked her to join them in Costa Rica to fulfill a dream of a Yoga and Meditation Center in the middle of nature. Lynda came on board leaving all of what she built in Los Angeles behind. She is really happy at her new home. We come up to a building on stilts and I smell something good cooking in the kitchen and I am shocked! “WOW!” a real building with a real kitchen!

This indoor/outdoor building with a kitchen attached is the communal dining area and a few dogs come out to meet me! Jeff sits on his computer, fans above are at full throttle and there is internet! WHAT? How does that work? After a refreshing glass of Lemon Mint Iced Tea, just delicious, I notice  Lynda opening up the packages with excitement. Beautiful books and notes from her Claire. Her face was worth the carrying the books on the plane, the getting lost,  and the hiking up this mountain side. I feel happy. After our tea, I am ready for my tour of Lynda’s new home! First stop? We walk over to the building that makes it all happen. The solar power station.

Lynda tells me that the Sanctuary opened up officially 2 weeks ago! WHAT? Solamente Stephanie gets the first sneak peak! This is AWESOME! I can’t believe it just opened two weeks ago! HOW COOL IS THAT! Lynda walks me around and I learn that all the buildings are built with eco and local materials, the color palette is based on that of the Costa Rican country side which could be thought of as very humid and just green but there is more! It is full of lavender, pinks, yellows and beiges and is very soothing.

The stone used is local and the wood as well. “How did they get it all up here?” I asked remembering the slippery river rocks…. “Very carefully” replies Lynda. “It took about 7 years to get it all right.” Nothing of nature was really moved or bothered during construction. There are a series of buildings that guests can stay in that replicate the feeling of living in a tree house. The main yoga building is large and airy and reminded me of something you would find in Bali. All building are set on pilings and stilts and the best part? There are NO glass windows anywhere. Screens take the place of the glass or otherwise it is all open. Simply Brilliant! The sound of nature surrounds you, chirps and squeaks while the wind kisses the trees and even more strange? You can almost hear the sunshine. Isn’t that amazing? The Sanctuary is built on a hill – so there are a ton of ups and downs, good for the legs… and I thought – good lessons for life. After all, people will come here to let it all go, and get it all back. What better but to deal with the ups and downs of this amazing hillside to remind us of that. Walking down hill there is a huge building with a pool! Lynda tells me how excited she is to have their first guests arrive and to get started on a retreat with a full curriculum.

One feature that will be offered here are the full moon retreats which will be fantastic. This is the “moon catcher” that they built for the premises for full moons. At just the right moment, the moon is at its center for full effect!

Up to 17 people can live on this property including the residents. Their apartments are integrated between all the various rooms for guests as well as other buildings making for a real homy feel. Still if you are looking to escape you can and will. Before I knew it – I had to leave, but I did not want to. Lynda and I talked about putting together a mother daughter full moon retreat! I promised her I would convince my mother and Claire to come! I knew that I would be back and the sooner the better! Here are a few more pics of the place…

As we start our descent to the river, I say my goodbyes and wish them all luck. I leave them in their isolation here. It will take about 20 minutes or so to get to the car and then another 10 minutes to Montezuma, I wonder if they ever feel lonely and Lynda assures me no. Especially with the anticipation of guests! We expect to be full to capacity after a few months. We say our goodbyes as I turn to the car and watch Lynda walk away into the light beams that come through the canopy,  it is a gorgeous scene! I feel envious of her life here with nature… making very little dent on planet earth. I think about the courage it takes to make a move and live in a place like this. Then of course, they have internet and there is always facebook! :).

That night, while I was having dinner in Montezuma, I look over only to see Lynda in town walking down the street with Max and Marcella! LYNDA!!!!! I ask her to join us and I tell her, the only regret I had was that we did not take a picture together at the Sanctuary! Manuel offers to take one right then and there! Claire! this one’s for you! Thanks for connecting us! I am also throwing in a pic with Niko. I thought you would get a kick out of it! Small world as they had already met at your wedding!! Before the group got into the Taxi I asked Lynda! “Lynda! How are you going to get to the Sanctuary?” and she responded with a smile “By taxi and then by a head lamp!”

For more information: please go to http://www.thesanctuarycostarica.com/ or click on this:  The Sanctuary at Two Rivers

to email for more information and reservations: info@thesanctuarycostarica.com

Vivero Tortugas, Montezuma Beach, Costa Rica

I had to take a walk – the evening was perfect  and I needed more shells for the necklaces I was making. I had about an hour and sunset was approaching so I ran up Playa Montezuma toward the cove where the good shells are.

I notice dead fish lining the beach- a direct result of the red tide that has been wreaking havoc on the fish. Most of the shellfish can’t get away from it and many of the fish can get disoriented in it and die. I notice that most of the fish on the beach have their eyes buldged out.

I then see an enormous krane descent onto a dead fish and wonder if the krane is going to get sick after he eats the contaminated fish. I realize again and always how sensitive and balanced we are all and how we are all connected. Water to fish to birds, just like that. But on my way back, good things are happening as I see a crowd gathering just south of town on the beach. There seems to be excitement and THERE IS!!!

Sea Turtles are underdogs when it comes to their hatchlings surviving in the wild. Just a simple walk towards the ocean is a dangerous and they don’t move fast enough to dodge the birds that come down to snatch them away. Once they reach the water there are 100 other predators waiting for them as well. They have a natural instinct to “play dead” in the water in hopes that birds and big fish mistake it for a leaf of some sort, but even that rarely helps. I was told today that 1 and 10,000 hatchlings will survive. There are various programs that assist in the “march of the hatchlings” This one in Montezuma protects the nests and then assists them after they hatch.

I am so excited to be there so I grab a stick an immediately start smoothing out the beach with two other workers. We are trying to make their walk a little easier. There are all sorts of people and tons of camera. This a big night in Montezuma!

As the dusk approaches, the turtles are brought out and people can put on gloves and release a turtle for a small donation. The vivero is NON PROFIT. Clive, from London – tells me that with assisted launches – the turtles survive 1 in 1000! Much better odds. He is in from Cuba where he was teaching a music seminar – took a few days to visit Costa Rica and says to me “the one time I don’t have my camera – and they are releasing these little ones.” I promise clive that I will send im photos and film!

And so it begins, one by one the turtles are released… they need to walk the beach to set their GPS – since they will be returning in 20 years to lay their eggs again. I ask if the red tide is going to kill them, and they tell me somehow the turtles survive the red tide. Great News!!!

There was nothing sweetie or cuter than the turtle launch, indeed it was a spectacular sight.

Zuma Tours has daily snorkeling trips to the Tortuga Islands. The islands are about 1 hour away from the town of Montezuma and you board the small motor boat from the beach just at town. The excursion takes all day and even included a few beers, a delicious fish  lunch and 2 snorkeling trips around the area. There were a few boats launching actually, some for snorkeling, others for scuba and a transport vessel which was slightly larger than our boat taking tourist to the mainland. The roller suitcases lined the beach as large plastic garbage bags were divied out to put the luggage into. I thought since you are boarding the boat by beach, what a good idea that was – in case the luggage slipped out of your hand and fell into the sea. I realize however, it was not for that. Our little bot chugged through the 6 foot seas away from land and along the coastline and within the first 4 minutes, everyone and everything got wet. That is what the garbage bags were for.

The boat was rocking back and forth and water was splashing in. We all begin to worry about our cameras, our clothing and our wallets when I think to myself, this was dumb, I should have asked for a garbage bag to throw everything in. Luckily the water and wind was warm and the ocean began to smooth out. What is nice about Montezuma from the sea is that you barely see it. The town and the small inns are integrated with the nature. As you head north, Playa Grande is alittle different, here you will see enormous homes and hotels that sit on the cliffs and over look the sea. I would have had a picture to show but it was way to wet! Moving even further north to Playa Tambor, it gets natural again and as you round the corner, Islas Tortugas are in sight and they are beautiful. It was not obvious to me why they named these islands after the turtles, I figured is was since turtles lived there, but actually these small islands actually LOOK like TURTLES!

We enter the coves and see other boats, a white sandy beach (usually not that good for shells) some small structures, people swimming – all in all –  a mini tourist trap! We drop the chef off at the beach and then head to one of the smaller rocks, as we take a ride around, there had to be 5 other snorkel boats there. Tourists flapping around in the water, was not the prettiest sight. I thought to myself how lame we are, fish voyeurs, flapping around with masks, if I was a fish I would laugh at us.  The boat captain takes us around the boat to see if there is a better place and to go when we notice the water looks thick and red. “There is that Red water again, what is that?” I ask.

RED TIDE: In short is an over production of algae due to warmer water temperature. It can harm humans as well as fish. Fish that are contaminated can then affect the birds that eat them.  Red Tide is a natural occurrence but can be affected by humans too. Use of Fertizlizers leaching into the ocean from nearby farms can contribut to the intensity of the Red Tide that wreaks havoc on fish populations. Shell fish get it the worst. They can’t swim out of the red tide fast enough. I was told that whales and turtles can tolerate it, but that is about it. It explained all the dead fish on the beach and explains the red water we saw from the beach on our first day here. To read more about it, see the link here.

Costa Rica Close up Red Tide

There is nothing more depressing to me than animals that suffer. Sure a fair amount is due to survival of the fittest but when man has a hand? I really makes me mad. The captain comes around the corner finding blue water, I pass out the fins, and we all jump in. But before we do I asked the group to do a head count so we don’t leave anyone behind. ALWAYS good to do when in a foreign country and going diving or snorkeling. Didn’t you see that crazy movie OPEN WATER? There were plenty of fishies to see, but I begin to wonder about them surviving the tide that is coming in. The Reef that the fish were swimming on was pretty dead and the water was really warm. Manuel was not overly impressed so I suggest he swim back to the base camp which he does with Niko. Punto and I stay behind and play around with the fish that were all beautiful. Blues and Yellows and Greens, Big and Small. I flip and dive around the fish and it feels good. We work up and appetite as we all get on the boat and do a head count minus 2. Waiting for us back at the main beach was a beautiful fish stew that was just cooked up for us with roasted potatoes. I did not want to eat the fish since I just swam with them but the cook encouraged me to get over it. I did and it was delicious.

Walking the beach – you felt a pinch. Bright Red and Orange Coral was washing up on the beach as I watch 2 tourists collecting some pieces that were pretty sharp! OUCH! At this point the red tide approaches… and the blue water turns to red.

After a Siesta while the others went on another snorkel tour that included swimming with the rays, we board the boat, secure the bags and brave what felt like an eternity to get to Montezuma. The Waves were big, the sun was setting and the water was splashing. we come to the area where we saw the whale and realize if he wanted to come and flop around, our boat would be thrown. The Water stayed red as we approach Montezuma Beach and we are greeted with a bech littered with dead fish. Red tide had taken over the entire south tip of the Nicoya Pennisula and just in time for the height of the tourist season.

This is actually the same afternoon that I released the turtles. Luckily Turtles are fine with the red tide and they are not affected. At least that is what they said to me. somehow I find it hard to believe. People are constantly telling me that the world existed without humans and that we are really just a blip on mother earths radar. REd Tide would occur if humans did not have a hand in the warming of the globe, but it is our effect in the acceleration and the acute affect we are having directly and quickly that frustrates me most. Every single decision we make on a moment to moment basis will effect mother nature. I urge you to remember that and try to do something that supports mother E.

For more information on Red Tide see a few links below.

redtide.html

Red_tide

Harmful_algal_bloom#Harmful_algal_blooms

After a long day at sea we are ready for a hot shower and a good meal. Tonight I will not be eating fish. They have enough to worry about as it is.

Love, Stephanie